I was quite surprised to learn that Absinthe has been imported into this country since 1998. No doubt interest has developed in this drink as a result of social networking. My surprise is probably the result of being led to believe that imbibing would lead to all sorts of mental problems, resulting in hallucinations, personality disorders and even insanity. Back in the 70s when I worked in New York State I witnessed, at first hand, the same issues involving LSD. At the time the US Military considered using its mind bending capacity as a weapon! If Absinthe has a similar history why the continued interest or is it all a myth?
As a teenager (and since) I became interested in the French Impressionist Movement and the paintings of Degas, Toulouse Lautrec, etc. At the end of their working days they had a ‘happy hour’, when Absinthe was the choice ‘apero’ but if you look at Degas’ painting ‘The Absinthe Drinker’, happy she is not.
During the second half of the 1800s Absinthe was very popular in France and was associated with artists and bohemians but its use was not only restricted to these. However, towards the end of the century prohibition, temperance and an anti Absinthe programme developed and resulted in its ban in 1915. Incidentally, the UK never officially banned its use.
Now with voices being raised against the easy availability of alcohol in this country the revival of Absinthe has produced astonishment. Somehow I cannot see it being the cause of Friday and Saturday night hooliganism even if it is almost twice as potent as ordinary spirits because it is very expensive. EU regulations
mean that today's Absinthe is up to a ninth of the strength of that of the Belle Epoch...little wonder some went a bit wild.
So just what is this Green Fairy or Green Muse or even the Queen of Poisons as it has been called? It started off as a patent medicine for indigestion in Switzerland, a country not noted for its boozers. A Mr Pernod imported it into France just after the Revolution and his name lives on with that of Ricard. Essentially it is a light, green drink produced by infusing herbs in alcohol and then distilling the mixture. One of the herbs is Wormwood or Artemisia absinthium. Hence the name but there are others like anise and fennel and the result is a vivid green liquid. A chemical agent called a-thujon in the demonised Wormwood was considered responsible for neurotoxic effects but the same agent is also found in sage, fennel and tarragon. I suspect quite a few kitchens in Clanfield and Val d'Oison contain these herbs and the agent is also in skin creams, insect repellent, Vick's Vapour Rub and anti moth cedar balls. Wow!
Fée Verte, 'the scourge of society' as the French government called it in 1915, is now the subject of an international copyright dispute. The Swiss claim that since Absinthe orginated in Switzerland then only the Swiss have the right to name the drink. Echoes of champagne perhaps?
Have you checked your kitchen shelves lately?
Carwyn Hughes